How To Links:
- Estimating & Installation Preparations
- Wood Window Frame Install
- Installing CX44 Panels on the Side Walls
- Inside Container Corners
- Installing Panels on the End Wall
- Installing Panels on the Ceiling
- Installing Panels on the Floor
- Installing Plumbing
- Installing Electrical
- Installing Drywall, Trim, Cabinets
- Cold Weather Adhesive Application Tips
Installing a Wood Buck into a Container
Determine your window layout first. We suggest that you adjust your openings to the right or left up and down to simplify other steps later on. If you invested in a sample kit use the side wall insert to help you mark your layout lines.
After the layout is determined. Pre-drill holes through the containers steel walls before you cut out your opening. After the opening is cut the remaining steel wall will not give you firm support making drilling holes a little bit harder. The predrilled holes are for attaching the wood buck later.
In this application we are insulating the interior and exterior of this container. To accomidate the extra wall thickness we choose 2x6 wood bucks for strength and thermal properties. Wood is a better insulator than steel and we wanted to reduce the chances of condensation.
In this section we will show different methods and tools for cutting through a container. It is not to be considered an endorsement or the best way to cut out your openings. It is always best experiment to see what will work best for you. For us an angle grinder worked well for starting the holes for the saw blade cuts. We also used a drill to piolet a hole to start a cut.
A Jigsaw worked well but the blades dulled quickly and was kind of slow. It is worth the investment to buy a higher quality a metal cutting blade.
Reciprocating Saw or Sawzall with a "Edge" blade worked very well had more power and worked faster.
We used an angle grinder to smooth out the sharp cut edges.
We used a 2x4 to straighten the floppy corrugations and to provide an accurate straight edge for the template.
Mark the 2x4 at 2", centering the 2x6 wood buck over the corrugation.
Mark the 2x6 lumber on both sides of the steel to trace out a cut line for the jig saw cut.
Cut the 2x6 for the corrugation pattern to fit the window opening.
Build your interior and exterior wood bucks on a flat level surface.
Put a generous bead of the Loctite PL Premium onto both halves of the wood buck. This will provide a tight air seal and bond.
Attach the exterior 1/2 of the wood buck through the predrilled holes in the container wall.
Fasten the exterior portion of the wood buck through the predrilled holes in the container.
To fasten the interior half of the buck we used special fasteners fro ITW with a drill bit and metal wings that over drill the wood then break-off to allow the screw to anchor itself to the steel container wall.
The interior 1/2 of the wood buck's 2x6s holes were counter sunk.
The window bucks are complete and ready to finish. Next step is to insulate the interior walls with the CX44 panels.
- 1 large 28-fl oz / 828 mL tube = 18 (24″ studs or inserts)
- End wall Inserts 20
- UX 2.0 (8 panels with 3 studs each) = 24
- 20 + 24 = 44
- 44 ÷ 18 = 2 1/2 tubes of the adhesive
On the end wall or nose of a container you will need 2 1/2 tubes of the adhesive to apply the inserts and panels. Run a bead of Loctite PL Premium 3x along the length of the insert and press into the corrugated space of the shipping container’s wall.
InSoFast Plus Method
Need a higher R-value? No Problem! Start with a base of InSoFast continuous insulation panels they are feature-rich and easy to install. Then add rigid foam insulation over top of InSoFast panels.