Shipping Container: Installing Window Bucks

Installing a Wood Buck into a Container

Determine your window layout first

We suggest that you adjust your openings to the right or left up and down to simplify other steps later on. If you invested in a sample kit use the side wall insert to help you mark your layout lines. 

After the layout is determined. Pre-drill holes through the containers steel walls before you cut out your opening. After the opening is cut the remaining steel wall will not give you firm support making drilling holes a little bit harder. The pre-drilled holes are for attaching the wood buck later.

In this application we are insulating the interior and exterior of this container. To accommodate the extra wall thickness we choose 2x6 wood bucks for strength and thermal properties. Wood is a better insulator than steel and we wanted to reduce the chances of condensation. 

Methods for cutting through a container

In this section we will show different methods and tools for cutting through a container. It is not to be considered an endorsement or the best way to cut out your openings. It is always best experiment to see what will work best for you. For us an angle grinder worked well for starting the holes for the saw blade cuts. We also used a drill to pilot a hole to start a cut.

A Jigsaw worked well but the blades dulled quickly and was kind of slow. It is worth the investment to buy  a higher quality a metal cutting blade.

Reciprocating Saw or Sawzall with a "Edge" blade worked very well had more power and worked faster.

The metal gauges in a container varies so we recommended different blades for thinner the metal sidewalls with 20-24 teeth per inch, or try a medium thickness blade for between 10-18 teeth per inch, and for very thick metal, like the square tube or flooring beams a blade with around 8 teeth per inch will work better.

We used an angle grinder to smooth out the sharp cut edges.

How to create a corrugated template for cut-outs

We used a 2x4 to straighten the floppy corrugations and to provide an accurate straight edge for the template.

Mark the 2x4 at 2", centering the 2x6 wood buck over the corrugation.

Mark the 2x6 lumber on both sides of the steel to trace out a cut line for the jig saw cut.

Cut the 2x6 for the corrugation pattern to fit the window opening.

Assemble your wood window buck

Build your interior and exterior wood bucks on a flat level surface.

Put a generous bead of the Loctite PL Premium onto both halves of the wood buck. This will provide a tight air seal and bond.

Attach the exterior 1/2 of the wood buck through the pre-drilled holes in the container wall.

Attaching wood bucks with engineered fasteners

Fasten the exterior portion of the wood buck through the pre-drilled holes in the container.

To fasten the interior half of the buck we used special fasteners for ITW with a drill bit and metal wings that over drill the wood then break-off to allow the screw to anchor itself to the steel container wall.

Manufacture's Tech Sheet: TEK ITW buildex_Wood-to-Metal Fasteners.PDF

The interior 1/2 of the wood buck's 2x6 holes were counter sunk.

The window bucks are complete and ready to finish. Next step is to insulate the interior walls with the CX44 panels.

Manufacture's Tech Sheet: TEK ITW buildex_Wood-to-Metal Fasteners.PDF

Un-insulated exterior window flashing method.

Alternate application method for flashing a window without exterior siding.

See how-to video

Mark a horizontal line on the container above the window,

apply the paintable butter grade flashing to the window frame. Embed the polyester fabric into the wet flashing. Remove the painter’s blue tape.

InSoFast Plus Method

Need a higher R-value? No Problem! Start with a base of InSoFast continuous insulation panels they are feature-rich and easy to install.