Installation Guides

• Installing insulation over existing drywall or plaster
• Historic brick walls with plaster rehabs

Optional Floor Prep and Vapor Barriers

In older homes it is good practice to apply a concrete sealer to block moisture or install a vapor barrier on the concrete floor prior to installing the InSoFast panels.
If you have new construction with a vapor barrier already installed underneath the concrete slab, it is not necessary to put another vapor barrier on top of the concrete floor.

Using InSoFast on Both Walls and Floors

Install the InSoFast panels on the wall first. This minimizes the chance of water getting on top of the subflooring in the event the wall leaks.

Installation Methods

There are four basic installation methods: floating, glue down, screwed down, and fully adhered. The floating method is recommended for carpet, laminate, and wood floors. This is a simpler, quicker installation that makes the concrete floor feel softer and more comfortable. The glue down method can be used for carpet, laminate, and wood floors. The screw down method can be used for any flooring type. The fully adhered method is recommended for tiled area to create a solid base that eliminates movement.

1. Floating Installation
   • The floating method places the panels directly on the concrete without any adhesive. Interlock the panels together with the tongue and grooved edges in a running bond or staggered pattern.
2. Glue Down Installation
   • The glue down method bonds the panels in place with a 3/8" bead of PL Premium 3X Stronger Construction Adhesive along dove-tailed ribbing of each stud. One 28 oz. tube covers 50 s.f.
3. Screw Down Installation
   • Attach InSoFast panels to the concrete floor by installing concrete screws through the studs.
4. Fully Adhered Installation
   • For tile applications, the InSoFast panels are set in a bed of compatible thinset tile adhesive with a notched trowel  as per manufacturer’s instructions.

Interior Partition Walls

Install InSoFast panels up to existing interior partition walls. Non-bearing interior partition walls can be framed directly on top of the subfloor or the InSoFast panel eliminating the need for a chemically treated bottom plate.

Installing Subflooring

Install subflooring with a gap for expansion following per manufacturer’s instructions. Fasten with standard coarse thread all-purpose construction screws. Heavier subfloor panels you may need to predrill a countersink hole. A pilot hole to allow for the screw to be countersunk a flat-head screw to seat flush with the work surface. 

• Menards Countersink Bit
• Home Depot Countersink Bit

Alternatively higher quality speciality fasteners for cement board applications can also be used saving a labor step when countersinking screws into the InSoFast stud.

• How-to-Install Rock-on Backer-on.PDF

When panels are installed as a floating floor, it is important to layout the subflooring so that the long seam of the plywood does not line up with the seams in the InSoFast panels. The short seams of the plywood should land over the top of a stud.

Uneven Floors

Prior to installing panels, the low spots can be filled in with concrete patch or concrete floor leveler.
If you notice an area with excessive deflection after the subflooring has been installed, fill the void with adhesive or spray foam. Simply drill a hole through the subflooring and panel down to the void and inject PL Premium Construction Adhesive 3X or gap and crack spray foam. Using too much spray foam will cause a bulge in the floor. Avoid walking on this area until the adhesive or spray foam has set.

InSoFast panels provide a simple, easy way to insulate cold concrete floors. The attachment studs provide a secure surface to screw the subfloor.

The Top 5 Things to Consider

1. InSoFast panels alone can raise the floor by 2 - 2½ inches which will affect any existing door swings as well as the floor-to-ceiling height.
2. A subflooring layer of at least ½-inch will be required overtop the InSoFast panels.
3. Code requires staircase steps to be all the same height to prevent tripping hazards. Measure your final heights accordingly.
4. Water seeks the lowest point in your home. In basement flooring applications, always make sure you have a working sump pump or backflow prevention system to keep sewage from getting trapped in places you don't want.
5. Double check your local building codes to determine the allowable live load for construction. See the next section on calculating loads for more information

Calculating Loads

You will need to determine what loading (weight per square foot) is acceptable for your local building codes.

For the most part, live load and dead load values for floor systems are considered "distributed loads." The total weight is distributed or shared uniformly by the members in the floor system. InSoFast panels are uniform because they have 100% contact with the concrete and subflooring.

Our product testing determined that InSoFast panels can support 13 lbs per square inch of compressive resistance at 10% strain deformation. This equates to 1872 lbs per square foot for the design load, well within most residential construction specifications.

Table 3.4 is taken from the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development Office of Policy Development and Research's 

Printable Guides

When install InSoFast panels in a ceiling application the goal is to provide as much contact between the studs and ceilings surface in order to maximize the holding power of the studs.

On the back of the panel, run a 3/8” bead of adhesive along dove-tailed ribbing of each stud. Add a bead of PL Premium 3x along the edge of the panel that will come in contact with the wall. The outer edge or where the first row of panels is placed.

One option is to install the wall panels before the ceiling panels just 2" short of the top. This allows the ceiling panels to slip in between and sit on top of the wall panels around the perimeter add shims to firmly support the edge of the panel until the adhesive sets..

The running bond pattern in not always required on the ceiling but is it recommended for a flatter truer job. Brace the panels firmly until all adhesives has cured. A common, “T” brace is often used. Alternatively a concrete fastener can be used to support the panels and eliminate the bracing requirement.

Mechanical Attachment

Install mechanical fasteners 12" o.c. (six per panel) into the recessed attachment points on the InSoFast stud.

Drywall Installation

Drywall is installed over InSoFast panels in the same way as traditional wood framing. Attach drywall to the InSoFast studs using standard coarse thread all-purpose drywall screws. The InSoFast panel provides solid backing for drywall around the perimeter. The ceiling drywall is locked in place when the drywall is applied to the walls.
As with all foam insulation products, a 15 minute thermal barrier, such as 1/2" drywall, is required.

Adhesive/Mechanical Attachment

Apply a 3/8" bead of PL Premium 3X Construction Adhesive on the backside of the studs which have the ribbed surfaces. Apply an additional bead of adhesive to the foam along any cuts.

Panels are mechanically locked in place when the adhesive sets in the hundreds of interlocking dovetails on the back of the stud.

Install one a mechanical fastener in the recessed attachment point per panel to hold in place until the adhesive has set.

Third party testing shows the ultimate strength of a single bead of adhesive is over 800 pounds per foot which is equal to concrete screws 6" o.c. However, it is up to your local building code official to determine if additional mechanical attachment is required. See product testing for more information.

PL Premium 3X Stronger Construction Adhesive is the only recommended adhesive for adhering the InSoFast panels. Other formulas and brands may not work as expected. One 28 oz. tube covers 50 s.f.

Details and Printable Instructions

InSoFast Plus Method

Need a higher R-value? It’s easy to increase your R-Value beyond R-10 while maintaining the engineered benefits of the continuous InSoFast panels. Simply layer rigid foam insulation board over top of InSoFast panels, InSoFast PLUS. This saves money by utilizing locally obtained rigid foam to enhance the R-Value. Additionally, projects can be completed in a fraction of the amount of time because they start with a base of feature-rich, low-labor InSoFast panels.

Added R-Value with InSoFast PLUS

You can use any panel UX 2.0, or EX 2.5 panels to develop an InSoFast PLUS for a complete R-Value wall assembly - giving you the ability to go from R-8.5 to R-21+.

Why is works so well to meet R-Value requirements.

• Embedded studs provide a continuous insulation (CI) barrier, eliminating thermal bridging.
• Add any amount of rigid foam over the InSoFast base panels to achieve any desired R-Value.
• Solid attachment can be achieved simply with adhesives. If preferred, they can be drilled or nailed.
• Interlocking panels bridge over wall deviations to help level and plumb the wall.
• Ventilated air channels control over moisture that can enter exposed masonry to allow for quicker drying.
• Pre-engineered electrical raceways enable the insulation shield to stay complete and intact.
• It is insulation framing in a one step process that has the building science built-in.

Find your local State R-Value Code Requirements

Increasing R-Values by adding Insulation

The pictured assembly above achieves an R-17 wall in a shipping container.

Three compliance paths towards energy efficiency:

Building Codes (IRC, IBC, IFC…) are primarily prescriptive in nature, the energy codes are geared more towards performance and effectiveness.  To address these difference Code writing bodies have created 3 means of complying with the newer energy codes:

1. Prescriptive –  you follow the code to the letter (no energy trade-offs – i.e. better windows thicker roof insulation doesn’t mean you can skimp somewhere else)
2. Performance – insulation trade off option – i.e. architect uses ResCheck to show compliance (for example exterior continuous insulation in favor of adding more insulation for the roof.) InSoFast believes that with containers a balanced approach to all exterior surfaces. (i.e. refrigerator roof is not thicker than the walls.)
3. The HERS Path- where one has to meet or be less than a target HERS score where you can use higher efficient appliances to comply (Only available in newer codes 2015 / 2018 )

InSoFast PLUS in Action

At an award-winning project in North Dakota, the developer wanted additional insulation without sacrificing interior space. They chose InSoFast to be directly install onto the masonry wall with an additional 1" rigid insulation board placed on top to increase the R-Value to meet the local energy code requirements. It was a labor-saver for this fast track retrofit project.

The InSoFast panels were installed first so the studs would be securely fastened to the concrete substrate. The 1" rigid foam was installed over top with the InSoFast stud locations marked on the floor and ceiling prior to adding the drywall. To attach the drywall, they used all-purpose 2" drywall screws to penetrate through the drywall and rigid foam into the InSoFast studs.

Importance of Continuous Insulation

The American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) standard 90.1 defines continuous insulation (CI) as insulation that is continuous across all structural members without thermal bridges other than fasteners and service openings. It is installed on the interior, exterior, or is integral to any opaque surface of the building envelope.

In cavity insulation systems, traditional stud framing can account for at least 25% of wall space. When the studs are uninsulated, there is enough thermal bridging to drop the R-Value from 19 to 12.5 - nearly a 35% loss, which can render any additional layers of insulation useless.

Building codes have higher requirements for cavity insulation to make up for the uninsulated studs or framing members. That is why basement wall code reads 10/13 in many climate zones. It can be R-10 continuous insulated sheathing on the interior or exterior of the home or R-13 cavity insulation along the interior of the basement wall.

Changing Energy Codes

New building codes are increasing R-Values minimums every 3-5 years so that new houses are will not be obsolete or un-affordable 30 years from now due to escalating energy prices. The projected codes for 2030 demand R-Values up to R-30 and the push toward net-zero housing is becoming a reality. While these codes are well-intentioned, they don't always figure a return on investment into the calculation.

To prepare for rising costs and changing energy environments, you may need to exceed your current local energy codes. See the links at the bottom of this page for information on Climate Zones and changes to the International Energy Conservation Codes (IECC).

Related Information

• InSoFast Panel R-Value Report, Stork Twin City Testing 
• Find your local State R-Value Code Requirements
• Chapter 4  Section 402 Building Thermal Envelop 2015 IECC requirements 
• Chapter 4  Section 402 Building Thermal Envelop 2018 IECC requirements 
• An InSoFast PLUS Project receives the ABC's Award for Excellence in Construction 
• Temperature Dependence of R-values

“Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should!”

Rubble Stone Wall

It is important to inspect the walls you want to cover before you order InSoFast. InSoFast panels are not suitable for every project. It is up to you to decide if you have the skills necessary to tackle leveling a wall using these advanced techniques. A wall must be repaired and stabilized structurally.  InSoFast panels are designed to be applied to structurally sound walls.

1. Begin with a Dry Stack

Dry stack your wall with InSoFast panels. Whether you are working in a basement or a shipping container projects the goal and methods are similar. The goal is to mimic the intended final installation but without physically attaching the panels. Once the walls are set up, one option is to shim the panels using 4" deck or drywall screws and a straight edge. Screw through the panel's stud until the screw comes in contact with solid wall. Then, slowly continue screwing so that the panels are ratcheted outward and become plumb or vertically even with your straight edge.

At this point, the unique position of each panel and its screw shims is critical. They need to be placed in these exact positions again during the final installation. So mark number or label your panels this will aid you in reconstructing your wall later.

Walls are rarely as level as you'd hope they are. Contractors installing InSoFast against the extremely uneven stone wall pictured below used spray foam to attach the panels.

Temporary wood braces.

2. Carve out the back of the panel to fit. It is easier than chiseling concrete.

3. Liquid Shim with spray foam.

The set screws serve as a guide for the amount and type of adhesive you will apply during the actual installation. Determine a method for deconstructing the walls. We find that simply removing the panels in reverse order is most beneficial to the workflow.

Where the set screw protrudes less than ⅜" from the back of the panel, apply PL Premium 3X Stronger adhesive to the dovetailed stud. PL Premium adhesive is designed to be able to span gaps this size and smaller.

Where the set screw protrudes more than ⅜" from the back of the panel, apply a generous bead of spray foam adhesive. The spray foam adhesive is only used in areas that have a gap of ⅜" up to a maximum of 1". Beyond that, the volume of spray foam needed may be cost-prohibitive.

4. Straight Walls Brace the walls. Until the glues sets.

Allow at least 24 hours for the adhesives to cure before finishing with drywall. The design of the InSoFast UX's tightly interlocking edges helps maintain a plumb finish.

While the spray foam cured, they held the panels in place with temporary 2x4s. The interlocks that connect each panel create a self-leveling structure in the finished walls.

Note: EX 2.5 panels are designed with a tighter interlock than the UX 2.0 panels, which greatly aids the plumbness of a finished wall. For this reason, we recommend opting for EX panels when faced with highly uneven walls.

Printable Guide

• Uneven Walls Technical Guide (PDF)

Rim Joists can Leak more than Windows

For many homes, the rim joist is one of the major sources of heat loss and air infiltration. The rim joist area above the foundation can cause more air leakage into the home than all the windows combined. The DIY project of sealing the rim joist is one of the best things that can be done to make the home more energy efficient. It is important to also seal and insulate the top of the concrete wall where the sill plate sits. It's the simplest and least expensive basement area to insulate, and will bring the highest return on your investment.

Rim Joists let in more than Air

Spiders, bugs, and even mice find the rim joist an attractive place to enter the home. The wooden rim or band joist area is where the house's wooden structure rests on the concrete foundation. This area is notorious for gaps and cracks.

Health Issues can Start in the Basement

A house breathes from the basement up. Typically three quarters of the air infiltration comes from the basement. The air entering or exiting the rim joist area can contain high levels of moisture, increasing the likelihood of mold growth and rot in this area. So if there are mold problems in the basement, this can affect the air quality throughout the house.

Caution: After sealing your rim joist area and eliminating air infiltration into the basement, it is important to check the combustion appliances for proper makeup air. Make sure that the appliances are not back drafting to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning.

Building Codes Related to Rim Joist Installation

If you are not planning on finishing the basement or drywalling the ceiling, building codes require that all exposed rigid foam products and spray foam products be covered with a 15 minute thermal barrier, unless it has a fire rating such as Thermax fire rated insulation board. The 15 minute thermal barrier can be achieved by covering with 1-1/2" mineral fiber or ½" drywall glued to the foam board. Check with the local building official.

How To: Seal and Insulate Using Rigid Foam Board Insulation

A do-it-yourself friendly method for sealing and insulating the rim joist or band joist area is to use rigid foam up against the rim joist. This method can be hundreds of dollar less than the cost of using the commercially applied spray foam. Just cut the foam board slightly smaller than the area to be sealed and finish up with expanding spray foam. This is an effective method for air sealing this area while still being easy on the pocket book.

In cold, humid, or mixed climates, the foam board thickness needs to be 2" thick to stop the condensation in the rim joist area. If the foam board is properly sealed, additional fiberglass insulation can be added to obtain a higher r-value. Because the air infiltration has been stopped, the fiberglass should not have mold problems. More moderate climates may use 1" foam board, but please check with the local building official.

Installation Tips

Rigid foam board is easily cut with a long snap off blade utility knife. Figure on leaving a gap of ¼" - ½" all the way around. Make sure to taper the cut around the edges so that there is plenty of room to get the expanding foam around the edges. Dry fit the rigid foam board pieces.

Prior to placing the foam board in place, run a bead of expanding foam along the bottom of the rim joist cavity. Place the foam board against the rim joist and seal around the remaining edges with the spray foam. If there are problems with the board staying in place, a bead of foam board adhesive can be placed on the back side of the panel. Make sure to seal around any pipes or other penetrations with the expanding foam to provide an air seal.

Use caution with the expanding spray foam. It is impossible to remove from your hands or clothing. Use protective eyewear. If you are using the spray foam with the straw applicator, you may find it helpful to attach flexible vinyl tubing as an extension over the straw. Since the can has to be upside down to maintain flow, this makes working in the rim joist area easier.

It is best practice to install InSoFast panels right up to beginning of a rim joist and fully seal the remaining space according to its receding geometry. You can use scrap panels of InSoFast to fill in these spaces and seal any other gaps with spray foam.

How To: Seal and Insulate Using Spray Foam Insulation

How Spray Foam Works

Commercially applied spray foam is considered to be the best way to seal the rim joist area. The spray foam easily fills in and seals all the cracks and openings in the rim joist or band joist area. It is generally installed by a professional insulation contractor with the necessary mixing equipment.

The polyurethane spray foam is a two-part compound. Part A is isocyanate and a mixture of polyols and additives and Part B is the catalysts. The chemicals are heated and mixed at the job site as the foam is sprayed from a high-pressure gun.

Health and Safety Concerns

While spray foam is a great product, there can be some major concerns. An improperly installed spray foam job can result from not following the manufacturer's recommendations, including the mixing temperature, applying too thick of a layer, and not following proper ventilation practices.

It is important to note when dealing with chemical off-gassing of a two part spray foam system, all occupants must vacate the building or wear proper ventilation. According to manufacturers, the ingredients are harmful at the time of application, but when cured properly it is an inert material that should not have any dangerous off-gassing.

Do not exceed 2" of thickness in a single pass. If the spray foam is applied in a thicker layer, the chemicals may fail to cure properly and may continue to off-gas into the home.

Keeping Spray Foam Affordable

There are two way to reduce material costs. First install a layer of rigid foam insulation and cover over and seal with spray foam. Another option is to apply a 2" layer of spray foam followed with fiberglass insulation. The spray foam provides the necessary air barrier while eliminating condensation and the fiberglass boosts the insulation value.

Do-it-yourself spray foam kits can be purchased. Extreme care must be taken with spray foam. A respirator, full body suit, gloves, and eye protection are required.

Avoid Fiberglass Insulation

Fiberglass Doesn't Meet Current Codes for Rim Joist Insulation

Insulating the rim joist or band joist area with fiberglass insulation is no longer recommended by building professionals and does not meet current building codes for air sealing.

Because fiberglass easily allows air to travel through, it is a very poor choice for insulating the drafty rim joist area. It is almost impossible to get a proper air seal in this tight space. The recommendation is that fiberglass insulation be removed from the rim joist area and replaced with a more effective insulation and vapor barrier system.

More Fiberglass Equals More Mold

One of the main problems with fiberglass insulation is that it does not restrict air flow. Without a vapor barrier at the rim space, there is relatively warm, moist air passing through the fiberglass insulation, hitting cooler air, and then condensing at the rim joist.

Over time the fiberglass filters out the dust traveling through. When moisture is added, mold can spread throughout the fiberglass and spread to the wood due to the lack of vapor barrier. This condition is often worsened by adding more fiberglass insulation which almost ensures that the area will not dry out.

• • Installing Heavy Objects like TVs and Cabinets
  • Concrete Formed Brick Wall Basement
  • 4 Reasons to Choose EX for your Project (Comparison)
  • What Lies Beneath: A Basement Transformation (Featured Project)