Preparing Your Walls for InSoFast:
| How to dry-stack the panels. |  |
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| How to cut the panels to fit. |  |
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After pre-cutting and fitting all the panels with a dry stack, a dry run, (why mess with glue when cutting and fitting panels) to determine the layout, Ed and Dean are ready to adhere the panels to the wall. Watch them do it in less than 10 minutes.
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| Corners Inside and Outside. |  |
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| Window and Door Openings. |
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8ft-high ceilings make for a very easy InSoFast installation. Because each panel is 2ft high, you won't need any modifications at the top of the wall. In fact, this is the case for any ceiling height evenly divisible by two. 6ft ceilings, 10ft ceilings, 24ft ceilings: no modification.
But what do you do with an uneven ceiling height? You have to cut the panels. Think of InSoFast panels as a carpentry shortcut for insulation and framing. It doesn't have to be a masterpiece, it just has to work. The panels are designed to lock together in a tight pattern, but you shouldn't feel discouraged from breaking this pattern if it makes more sense in your installation.
Cut, carve, and reshape the panels as much as your walls require. Any gaps, cracks or imperfections can be sealed later with expanding foam.
Cutting panels to fit
Measuring
Once you've reached the final row at the top of your wall, measure the distance between the ceiling (or joists) and the top-most "tongue" edge of the previous row of panels.
Here we turn the panel upside down to mark the size of the cut 12 1/4" so we cut the panel short or shy 1/4" to (12") to accommodate for the tongue and groove interlock..
Note: Cutting the panels to fit between floor joists is time consuming and may leave an uninsulated air pocket. For information on how to properly insulate this area see our page: Technical > Interior Guides > Rim Joists
Measuring it by the "tongue" edge will give you a little extra space to be able to move the panel into place. Gaps and cracks should be sealed with an expanding foam later.
Pro Tip: You can get a good measurement by turning the panel upside-down and pressing its top-most edge against the ceiling. Make a mark directly on the panel where it meets the "tongue" edge of the previous row. When you flip the panel right-side up again, the mark will denote the height at which it should be cut in order to fit the imperfect space. See the video above for a visual demo.
Cutting
Use the measurement to cut the last row of panels horizontally. You will likely need a hand saw or power tool to slice through the embedded studs.
If your scraps do not have a way of interlocking with the "tongue" edge of the previous row, you can use a razor blade to remove the tongue. By removing the tongue, you will have a more even block surface to fill-in with a scrap panel. Gaps and cracks should be sealed with an expanding foam later.
Installing
Install the "bottom half" of the newly cut panel in the final row. The bottom half will still include the interlocking "groove" edge that meets the "tongue" edge of the previous row.
Because your cut was made to the "tongue" edge, you should have a little extra room to place the panel. Gaps and cracks should be sealed with an expanding foam later.
You can add a bead of adhesive to the panel before you place it at the top of the wall.
Using scraps
Don't discard any scraps made from cuts until you've completely finished your installation. InSoFast scraps are highly re-usable
- From Ceiling to Floor:
If you made cuts to meet an imperfect ceiling height, use the other half of the cut pieces as the first row of a new wall. This section is considered the "top half" of the cut panel. Its cut edge will sit on the floor, while its top edge will meet the next row of panels. The top should have an intact interlocking "tongue" edge. - Scraps without interlocking edges:
If most of your walls are complete and most of your fresh panels have been used or cut, you can use scraps to meet the imperfect ceiling height. You will essentially follow the same procedure for measuring and cutting as listed above with variations dependent on availability of panel interlocks.
Printable Instructions
| 1. How to wire an InSoFast wall. |
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Pulling wires around corners or changing directions from wall to ceiling with InSoFast is simple. Once the wall/surfaces is up and the adhesive is set you can cut out and replace the insulation easily. This corner technique will also work at junctions at frame walls. You can even update an pull wires through InSoFast after the wallboard or gypsum panels are on the wall.
It is okay to over cut the InSoFast Panel.
To make things easier and give you extra room to work with the wiring, cut the opening up to the horizontal chase way. Once the electrical work is completed the foam can be pieced back into place and air sealed with spray foam. Alternately if homeruns or larger openings are needed the foam can be cut back to the studs and completely removed.
Save the cut foam to use later after the electrical work is completed.
Installing Outlet Boxes
Secure electrical boxes directly to the concrete wall with adhesive or a mechanical fastener, anchors or screws (for masonry walls). Once securely fastened to the wall, fill the extra space around the box with expanding foam. The foam air and water seals the electrical. All of our recommendations are based on National Codes requirements. Please check with your local building departments for local amendments.
Fitting around Pipes
The easiest way to work around pipes and other obstructions along your wall is to simply carve the InSoFast around it and fill the gap with spray foam.
When the spray foam has set, use a knife to shave off the excess.Below are a few options and ideas for how to finish around obstructions that stick out past the InSoFast panels.
Cut the InSoFast panels approximately ¼" inch shy of the pipe's perimeter.
Any time you cut an InSoFast panel you should put an extra bead of adhesive on the foam near the cut in order to solid-back the panel to the wall.
Fill in the gap with expanding spray foam after you've finished your installation to seal around the pipe.
Pro Tip:InSoFast panels come in big cardboard boxes which can be utilized in several practical ways throughout your installation process. In order to make the right cuts around a pipe, we recommend using with a piece of the cardboard box to make a template of the necessary shape. Once you have the right template, simply trace it over the InSoFast panel and make your final cuts. Simple Templates for Complicated Cuts Video
Building out the wall
If your floor plan allows for it, you can conceal the pipe inside an intersecting wall such as a bathroom plumbing wall or partition wall. Be sure to provide an access cover for the cleanout. Please read our intersecting wall guide at Technical > Interior Guides > Attaching Intersecting Walls for information.
Bringing out the entire wall by screwing furring strips to the InSoFast studs is another option. While this option works well, it will have a greater impact on your final floor space.
One DIY-er in Vermont had a very tricky set of pipes in his basement so he decided to cover over all of them with this method. Luckily, he had enough clearance behind the pipes to fit InSoFast EX 2.5 panels. You can read about his project here: Explore > Featured Projects > Frozen Walls and Plumbing Obstacles.
Running Pipes through the Electrical Channels
While this may sound like an ideal way of hiding ugly pipes in your home, we typically discourage running pipes behind the panels as this may result in freezing and bursting.
Covering pipes behind the insulation separates them from the warm conditioned space and exposes them solely to exterior temperatures. Even if you have never had problems before, this method can actually create the conditions that allow them to freeze.
However, you may be able to successfully install piping, such as PEX, behind the panels if you are in a climate zone that does not experience freezing ground temperatures.
You can also mitigate the potential of frozen pipes by insulating your walls on both the interior and exterior sides. Insulating only on the exterior side would not only be more budget-friendly, it may also be more effective.
InSoFast panels have no food value and the panels are considered a 2" or 2 1/2" thick insulated vapor/AIR barrier that will not to support mold growth. So here are the top 6 areas to make sure you air seal.
- The TOP of the wall.
- Along the floor line.
- Inside corners.
- Around any window openings.
- Openings like air registers.
- All service openings like electrical boxes.
| 1. How-to install drywall to the inSoFast panels. |  |
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| 1. How-to secure corners and partition walls to the panels. |  |
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Mounting heavy items, such as cabinets, shelving, or a mounting bracket for a flat screen TV, to an InSoFast wall is easy. With a conventional framed wall it is impossible to mount something heavy, like cabinets, between the framing members. With InSoFast panels, heavy objects can be fastened anywhere on the wall. Simply screw to the attachment studs of the InSoFast panel using cabinet screws or fasteners for wood.
Alternatively the drywall is backed solid with the rigid foam of the InSoFast panel, there is no need to locate a "stud" when fastening through the foam directly into the concrete which serves as a continuous solid structural backing behind the entire wall. Use standard concrete screws or anchors of proper size and capacity.
Taping and finishing the drywall and trim to the InSoFast walls.
Attaching the trim using nails.
Our studs are 16” on center that is the most secure way to fasten the trim. A trick that a finish carpenter would use is “X” nailing the trim at a sharp angle in 2 different directions. This way the trim would be held in position by opposing nails.
Attaching the trim using drywall compound as an adhesive.
A plasterer by trade and would prefer the no nail method by using drywall compound to adhere the trim to the wall. That stuff sticks to everything. The bonus with this method it eliminates the need for caulking and filling the nail holes with wood putty.
Apply of 1/2" bead of drywall compound to the backside of the PVC trim.
Roll the trim up and into place gently squeeze out the extra drywall compound.
Tool off excess compound with your finger let the compound cure then with a damp sponge wipe off , then let it dry before painting.
| 1. How-to install finishes other than drywall? |  |
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When install InSoFast panels in a ceiling application the goal is to provide as much contact between the studs and ceilings surface in order to maximize the holding power of the studs.
On the back of the panel, run a 3/8” bead of adhesive along dove-tailed ribbing of each stud. Add a bead of PL Premium 3x along the edge of the panel that will come in contact with the wall. The outer edge or where the first row of panels is placed.
One option is to install the wall panels before the ceiling panels just 2" short of the top. This allows the ceiling panels to slip in between and sit on top of the wall panels around the perimeter add shims to firmly support the edge of the panel until the adhesive sets..
The running bond pattern in not always required on the ceiling but is it recommended for a flatter truer job. Brace the panels firmly until all adhesives has cured. A common, “T” brace is often used. Alternatively a concrete fastener can be used to support the panels and eliminate the bracing requirement.
Mechanical Attachment
Install mechanical fasteners 12" o.c. (six per panel) into the recessed attachment points on the InSoFast stud.
Drywall Installation
Drywall is installed over InSoFast panels in the same way as traditional wood framing. Attach drywall to the InSoFast studs using standard coarse thread all-purpose drywall screws. The InSoFast panel provides solid backing for drywall around the perimeter. The ceiling drywall is locked in place when the drywall is applied to the walls.
As with all foam insulation products, a 15 minute thermal barrier, such as 1/2" drywall, is required.
Adhesive/Mechanical Attachment
Apply a 3/8" bead of PL Premium 3X Construction Adhesive on the backside of the studs which have the ribbed surfaces. Apply an additional bead of adhesive to the foam along any cuts.
Panels are mechanically locked in place when the adhesive sets in the hundreds of interlocking dovetails on the back of the stud.
Install one a mechanical fastener in the recessed attachment point per panel to hold in place until the adhesive has set.
Third party testing shows the ultimate strength of a single bead of adhesive is over 800 pounds per foot which is equal to concrete screws 6" o.c. However, it is up to your local building code official to determine if additional mechanical attachment is required. See product testing for more information.
PL Premium 3X Stronger Construction Adhesive is the only recommended adhesive for adhering the InSoFast panels. Other formulas and brands may not work as expected. One 28 oz. tube covers 50 s.f.
Details and Printable Instructions
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| InSoFast Ceiling Installation Instruction | ||
| ITW-Tapcon-Masonry-Fastening |
InSoFast Plus Method
Need a higher R-value? It’s easy to increase your R-Value beyond R-10 while maintaining the engineered benefits of the continuous InSoFast panels. Simply layer rigid foam insulation board over top of InSoFast panels, InSoFast PLUS. This saves money by utilizing locally obtained rigid foam to enhance the R-Value. Additionally, projects can be completed in a fraction of the amount of time because they start with a base of feature-rich, low-labor InSoFast panels.
Added R-Value with InSoFast PLUS
You can use any panel UX 2.0, or EX 2.5 panels to develop an InSoFast PLUS for a complete R-Value wall assembly - giving you the ability to go from R-8.5 to R-21+.
| PLUS System** | UX 2.0 PLUS (Complete assembly*) | EX 2.5 PLUS (Complete assembly*) |
| InSoFast PLUS ½” Rigid Foam @ R-2.5 | R-11.0 (R-13.58) | R-12.5 (R-15.08) |
| InSoFast PLUS ¾” Rigid Foam @ R-3.75 | R-12.25 (R-14.83) | R-13.75 (R-16.33) |
| InSoFast PLUS 1″ Rigid Foam @ R-5.0 | R-13.5 (R-16.08) | R-15.0 (R-17.58) |
| InSoFast PLUS 1½” Rigid Foam @ R-7.5 | R-16.0 (R-18.58) | R-17.5 (R-20.08) |
| InSoFast PLUS 2″ Rigid Foam @ R-10 | R-18.5 (R-21.08) | R-20.0 (R-22.58) |
Why is works so well to meet R-Value requirements.
- Embedded studs provide a continuous insulation (CI) barrier, eliminating thermal bridging.
- Add any amount of rigid foam over the InSoFast base panels to achieve any desired R-Value.
- Solid attachment can be achieved simply with adhesives. If preferred, they can be drilled or nailed.
- Interlocking panels bridge over wall deviations to help level and plumb the wall.
- Ventilated air channels control over moisture that can enter exposed masonry to allow for quicker drying.
- Pre-engineered electrical raceways enable the insulation shield to stay complete and intact.
- It is insulation framing in a one step process that has the building science built-in.
Find your local State R-Value Code Requirements
Increasing R-Values by adding Insulation
The pictured assembly above achieves an R-17 wall in a shipping container.
Three compliance paths towards energy efficiency:
Building Codes (IRC, IBC, IFC…) are primarily prescriptive in nature, the energy codes are geared more towards performance and effectiveness. To address these difference Code writing bodies have created 3 means of complying with the newer energy codes:
- Prescriptive – you follow the code to the letter (no energy trade-offs – i.e. better windows thicker roof insulation doesn’t mean you can skimp somewhere else)
- Performance – insulation trade off option – i.e. architect uses ResCheck to show compliance (for example exterior continuous insulation in favor of adding more insulation for the roof.) InSoFast believes that with containers a balanced approach to all exterior surfaces. (i.e. refrigerator roof is not thicker than the walls.)
- The HERS Path- where one has to meet or be less than a target HERS score where you can use higher efficient appliances to comply (Only available in newer codes 2015 / 2018 )
InSoFast PLUS in Action
At an award-winning project in North Dakota, the developer wanted additional insulation without sacrificing interior space. They chose InSoFast to be directly install onto the masonry wall with an additional 1" rigid insulation board placed on top to increase the R-Value to meet the local energy code requirements. It was a labor-saver for this fast track retrofit project.
The InSoFast panels were installed first so the studs would be securely fastened to the concrete substrate. The 1" rigid foam was installed over top with the InSoFast stud locations marked on the floor and ceiling prior to adding the drywall. To attach the drywall, they used all-purpose 2" drywall screws to penetrate through the drywall and rigid foam into the InSoFast studs.
Importance of Continuous Insulation
The American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) standard 90.1 defines continuous insulation (CI) as insulation that is continuous across all structural members without thermal bridges other than fasteners and service openings. It is installed on the interior, exterior, or is integral to any opaque surface of the building envelope.
In cavity insulation systems, traditional stud framing can account for at least 25% of wall space. When the studs are uninsulated, there is enough thermal bridging to drop the R-Value from 19 to 12.5 - nearly a 35% loss, which can render any additional layers of insulation useless.
Building codes have higher requirements for cavity insulation to make up for the uninsulated studs or framing members. That is why basement wall code reads 10/13 in many climate zones. It can be R-10 continuous insulated sheathing on the interior or exterior of the home or R-13 cavity insulation along the interior of the basement wall.
Changing Energy Codes
New building codes are increasing R-Values minimums every 3-5 years so that new houses are will not be obsolete or un-affordable 30 years from now due to escalating energy prices. The projected codes for 2030 demand R-Values up to R-30 and the push toward net-zero housing is becoming a reality. While these codes are well-intentioned, they don't always figure a return on investment into the calculation.
To prepare for rising costs and changing energy environments, you may need to exceed your current local energy codes. See the links at the bottom of this page for information on Climate Zones and changes to the International Energy Conservation Codes (IECC).
Related Information
- InSoFast Panel R-Value Report, Stork Twin City Testing
- Find your local State R-Value Code Requirements
- Chapter 4 Section 402 Building Thermal Envelop 2015 IECC requirements
- Chapter 4 Section 402 Building Thermal Envelop 2018 IECC requirements
- An InSoFast PLUS Project receives the ABC's Award for Excellence in Construction
- Temperature Dependence of R-values
“Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should!”
Rubble Stone Wall
It is important to inspect the walls you want to cover before you order InSoFast. InSoFast panels are not suitable for every project. It is up to you to decide if you have the skills necessary to tackle leveling a wall using these advanced techniques. A wall must be repaired and stabilized structurally. InSoFast panels are designed to be applied to structurally sound walls.
1. Begin with a Dry Stack
Dry stack your wall with InSoFast panels. Whether you are working in a basement or a shipping container projects the goal and methods are similar. The goal is to mimic the intended final installation but without physically attaching the panels. Once the walls are set up, one option is to shim the panels using 4" deck or drywall screws and a straight edge. Screw through the panel's stud until the screw comes in contact with solid wall. Then, slowly continue screwing so that the panels are ratcheted outward and become plumb or vertically even with your straight edge.
At this point, the unique position of each panel and its screw shims is critical. They need to be placed in these exact positions again during the final installation. So mark number or label your panels this will aid you in reconstructing your wall later.
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Walls are rarely as level as you'd hope they are. Contractors installing InSoFast against the extremely uneven stone wall pictured below used spray foam to attach the panels.
Temporary wood braces.
2. Carve out the back of the panel to fit. It is easier than chiseling concrete.
3. Liquid Shim with spray foam.
The set screws serve as a guide for the amount and type of adhesive you will apply during the actual installation. Determine a method for deconstructing the walls. We find that simply removing the panels in reverse order is most beneficial to the workflow.
Where the set screw protrudes less than ⅜" from the back of the panel, apply PL Premium 3X Stronger adhesive to the dovetailed stud. PL Premium adhesive is designed to be able to span gaps this size and smaller.
Where the set screw protrudes more than ⅜" from the back of the panel, apply a generous bead of spray foam adhesive. The spray foam adhesive is only used in areas that have a gap of ⅜" up to a maximum of 1". Beyond that, the volume of spray foam needed may be cost-prohibitive.
4. Straight Walls Brace the walls. Until the glues sets.
Allow at least 24 hours for the adhesives to cure before finishing with drywall. The design of the InSoFast UX's tightly interlocking edges helps maintain a plumb finish.
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While the spray foam cured, they held the panels in place with temporary 2x4s. The interlocks that connect each panel create a self-leveling structure in the finished walls.
Note: EX 2.5 panels are designed with a tighter interlock than the UX 2.0 panels, which greatly aids the plumbness of a finished wall. For this reason, we recommend opting for EX panels when faced with highly uneven walls.
Long and boring technical video
Printable Guide
Rim Joists can Leak more than Windows
For many homes, the rim joist is one of the major sources of heat loss and air infiltration. The rim joist area above the foundation can cause more air leakage into the home than all the windows combined. The DIY project of sealing the rim joist is one of the best things that can be done to make the home more energy efficient. It is important to also seal and insulate the top of the concrete wall where the sill plate sits. It's the simplest and least expensive basement area to insulate, and will bring the highest return on your investment.
Rim Joists let in more than Air
Spiders, bugs, and even mice find the rim joist an attractive place to enter the home. The wooden rim or band joist area is where the house's wooden structure rests on the concrete foundation. This area is notorious for gaps and cracks.
Health Issues can Start in the Basement
A house breathes from the basement up. Typically three quarters of the air infiltration comes from the basement. The air entering or exiting the rim joist area can contain high levels of moisture, increasing the likelihood of mold growth and rot in this area. So if there are mold problems in the basement, this can affect the air quality throughout the house.
Caution: After sealing your rim joist area and eliminating air infiltration into the basement, it is important to check the combustion appliances for proper makeup air. Make sure that the appliances are not back drafting to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning.
Building Codes Related to Rim Joist Installation
If you are not planning on finishing the basement or drywalling the ceiling, building codes require that all exposed rigid foam products and spray foam products be covered with a 15 minute thermal barrier, unless it has a fire rating such as Thermax fire rated insulation board. The 15 minute thermal barrier can be achieved by covering with 1-1/2" mineral fiber or ½" drywall glued to the foam board. Check with the local building official.
How To: Seal and Insulate Using Rigid Foam Board Insulation
A do-it-yourself friendly method for sealing and insulating the rim joist or band joist area is to use rigid foam up against the rim joist. This method can be hundreds of dollar less than the cost of using the commercially applied spray foam. Just cut the foam board slightly smaller than the area to be sealed and finish up with expanding spray foam. This is an effective method for air sealing this area while still being easy on the pocket book.
In cold, humid, or mixed climates, the foam board thickness needs to be 2" thick to stop the condensation in the rim joist area. If the foam board is properly sealed, additional fiberglass insulation can be added to obtain a higher r-value. Because the air infiltration has been stopped, the fiberglass should not have mold problems. More moderate climates may use 1" foam board, but please check with the local building official.
Installation Tips
Rigid foam board is easily cut with a long snap off blade utility knife. Figure on leaving a gap of ¼" - ½" all the way around. Make sure to taper the cut around the edges so that there is plenty of room to get the expanding foam around the edges. Dry fit the rigid foam board pieces.
Prior to placing the foam board in place, run a bead of expanding foam along the bottom of the rim joist cavity. Place the foam board against the rim joist and seal around the remaining edges with the spray foam. If there are problems with the board staying in place, a bead of foam board adhesive can be placed on the back side of the panel. Make sure to seal around any pipes or other penetrations with the expanding foam to provide an air seal.
Use caution with the expanding spray foam. It is impossible to remove from your hands or clothing. Use protective eyewear. If you are using the spray foam with the straw applicator, you may find it helpful to attach flexible vinyl tubing as an extension over the straw. Since the can has to be upside down to maintain flow, this makes working in the rim joist area easier.
It is best practice to install InSoFast panels right up to beginning of a rim joist and fully seal the remaining space according to its receding geometry. You can use scrap panels of InSoFast to fill in these spaces and seal any other gaps with spray foam.
How To: Seal and Insulate Using Spray Foam Insulation
How Spray Foam Works
Commercially applied spray foam is considered to be the best way to seal the rim joist area. The spray foam easily fills in and seals all the cracks and openings in the rim joist or band joist area. It is generally installed by a professional insulation contractor with the necessary mixing equipment.
The polyurethane spray foam is a two-part compound. Part A is isocyanate and a mixture of polyols and additives and Part B is the catalysts. The chemicals are heated and mixed at the job site as the foam is sprayed from a high-pressure gun.
Health and Safety Concerns
While spray foam is a great product, there can be some major concerns. An improperly installed spray foam job can result from not following the manufacturer's recommendations, including the mixing temperature, applying too thick of a layer, and not following proper ventilation practices.
It is important to note when dealing with chemical off-gassing of a two part spray foam system, all occupants must vacate the building or wear proper ventilation. According to manufacturers, the ingredients are harmful at the time of application, but when cured properly it is an inert material that should not have any dangerous off-gassing.
Do not exceed 2" of thickness in a single pass. If the spray foam is applied in a thicker layer, the chemicals may fail to cure properly and may continue to off-gas into the home.
Keeping Spray Foam Affordable
There are two way to reduce material costs. First install a layer of rigid foam insulation and cover over and seal with spray foam. Another option is to apply a 2" layer of spray foam followed with fiberglass insulation. The spray foam provides the necessary air barrier while eliminating condensation and the fiberglass boosts the insulation value.
Do-it-yourself spray foam kits can be purchased. Extreme care must be taken with spray foam. A respirator, full body suit, gloves, and eye protection are required.
Avoid Fiberglass Insulation
Fiberglass Doesn't Meet Current Codes for Rim Joist Insulation
Insulating the rim joist or band joist area with fiberglass insulation is no longer recommended by building professionals and does not meet current building codes for air sealing.
Because fiberglass easily allows air to travel through, it is a very poor choice for insulating the drafty rim joist area. It is almost impossible to get a proper air seal in this tight space. The recommendation is that fiberglass insulation be removed from the rim joist area and replaced with a more effective insulation and vapor barrier system.
More Fiberglass Equals More Mold
One of the main problems with fiberglass insulation is that it does not restrict air flow. Without a vapor barrier at the rim space, there is relatively warm, moist air passing through the fiberglass insulation, hitting cooler air, and then condensing at the rim joist.
Over time the fiberglass filters out the dust traveling through. When moisture is added, mold can spread throughout the fiberglass and spread to the wood due to the lack of vapor barrier. This condition is often worsened by adding more fiberglass insulation which almost ensures that the area will not dry out.
Videos
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The UX 2.0 is a feature rich insulation panel. 24” high by 48” wide it has a narrow 2” thick profile that delivers R-8.5 continuous insulation. |
| InSoFast's tongue-and-groove design keeps the panels dry and flashed. The unique notch system assures that the panel's studs and wiring chases stay aligned and true. |
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The EXi 2.5 flat panel is a feature rich insulation panel. 24” high by 48” wide it has a narrow 2 1/2” thick profile that delivers R-10.5 continuous insulation. |
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InSoFast Stud's patented interlocking design creates an adhesive key-lock that forms a secure mechanical bond after the adhesive sets. The adhesive bonds the stud to a variety of wall substrates, masonry, cmu, concrete, cinder blocks, Drylok Waterproofing Coating, plywood, and other materials. |
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Finish your basement and increase the value of your home while adding more liveable space. The following video and explanations can be applied to both UX and EX panel for interior masonry installations. |
| The easy-to-install InSoFast panel is engineered with an interlocking tongue and groove system that ensures tight, continuous insulation across your walls. In this video, Ed Scherrer, the man behind its ingenious design, demonstrates how to set up the interlock pattern when starting a wall. |
| Dry Stacking is a method we use to determine the layout and cuts of panels before they are adhered (or attached) to the wall. Once cut and set up, we remove the panels and stack them in order so that the actual installation runs smoothly. |
| InSoFast is lightweight and easy to cut and handle. In this video we show that there is very little waste. The cut piece from the bottom of the panel can be used at the top to finish the wall. |
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Turning Corners cutting and gluing panels. Cut the panels a 1/4" less than the actual measurement, this will relieve any pressure in the corner that my force panels to pop out. |
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After pre-cutting and fitting all the panels with a dry stack, a dry run, (why mess with glue when cutting and fitting panels) to determine the layout, Ed and Dean are ready to adhere the panels to the wall. Watch them do it in less than 10 minutes |
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When starting a panel or going around corners or opening we recommend that you add additional adhesive on the edges of the panels. This will secure the panel edges and give you a tighter finished wall. |
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Rarely are ceilings 8ft-high making it easy for an InSoFast installation. Because each panel is 2ft high, you may need to modify at the top of the wall. Here is a video that will show you how to handle the "Top-of-the-wall." |
| How to rough frame around windows and doors when using InSoFast veneer insulation for basements. Depending on the panel used, this application requires 2" (UX) or 2-½" (EX) thick framing or furring materials. |
| In this video we will highlight how to install our panels over existing electrical conduit when our pre installed channels don't align with the conduit. |
| It is common for professional basement finishing contractors to use InSoFast with their interior french drains or trenches. In this video we feature the use of advanced tools that are nice to have for channeling out the foam. |
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When working around obstruction on your wall you can create a template with the InSoFast cardboard boxes. InSoFast is rough framing and not fine carpentry ...so relax if you make a mistake you can glue the panels back together. |
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Due to uneven dips in the concrete floor of our basement, Ed needs to shim the insulation panels to avoid gaps in the thermal barrier. He demonstrates three easy methods to prop up the panels. |
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To level and plumb walls in a basement with InSoFast is easy with a little preparation and planning. Like a puzzle InSoFast interlocking panels can help you level and true uneven and irregular walls. |
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InSoFast answers how to insulate 1/2 high walls where the cinder block meets the top plate. |
| Occasionally you will have to work around existing will conditions. This video demonstrates how to carve out the back of the panel with a razor blade knife. There are many methods available like razor knives and hand saws. |
| The easiest way to work around lumps, bumps and other obstructions on your wall is to simply carve into the InSoFast panel. In this video we will show you a simple way to indent the foam and fit the panel. |
| Ed talks about a project in North Dakota, an old school house that is being converted into a dormitory for energy and pipeline employees. The developer wanted additional insulation without sacrificing interior space. |
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It’s easy to increase your R-Value beyond R-10 code minimums while maintaining the engineered benefits of continuous InSoFast panels. Simply layer rigid foam insulation board over top of InSoFast panels, a technique we’ve dubbed InSoFast PLUS. |
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Installing gypsum drywall is one of the more difficult tasks when remodeling a home. This video is intended as a simplified guide for the homeowner a sheet of ½" drywall weighs 54 pounds and can be difficult to maneuver. |
| In this video the Boden brothers, Chris and Dan will talk us through the drywall installation process. This is the continuing adventure with Boden Brothers and their first InSoFast install. |
| Phase 3: Taping the drywall to the InSoFast walls. This is the continuing adventure with Boden Brothers and their first InSoFast install. |
| Step-One Insulation over Drywall or Plaster Part 1 InSoFast can be a one person, one-step option that works continuously, without any thermal breaks in coverage, InSoFast bridges over the wall framing. |
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Step-Two Insulation over Drywall or Plaster Part 2, most remodeling insulation solutions involves a multiple step and messy process, not so with InSoFast. |
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Phase 4 with the Boden Brothers, mounting heavy items, such as cabinets or a mounting bracket for a flat screen TV, to an InSoFast insulated wall panel is easy. |
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In this video we are converting a garage/basement/sun porch concrete floor into a comfortable well insulated space. |
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In this video we explore how to level the floor around a tapered floor drain. |
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This video shows a shipping container application but the principal is the same for other floors. |
| In a customer produced video, he states "I am extensively remodeling a newly purchased home and was lucky enough to find InSoFast." The project was turning a double garage into a family/great room. He was really struggling with how to insulate the floor. |
| InSoFast engineered insulation is a great product for insulating cold concrete floors. In this video InSoFast used in conjunction with an innovative subfloor heating panel from Warm Board. |
| This InSoFast video is a very basic how to crawl space tutorial. It will guide you through a few common sense short cuts that will make working in this uncomfortable crawl space environment less strenuous. |
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For legal sake, we should probably clarify that you can try InSoFast panels at home. We don't necessarily condone trying the rock-climbing part at home. |
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We often get asked if the glue will hold the InSoFast panel to the wall? Will the stud hold drywall? The answer is yes to both questions. |
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This presentation is focused around a call from a builder struggling with what to do in a Base Flood Elevation Zone. InSoFast goes way beyond the requirement of just using a closed cell insulation, our system eliminates organic material like wood that is susceptible to moisture, rot and mold |
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InSoFast Panels Building Code Fire Blocking Requirements unlike frame construction InSoFast is a fire-blocked solid wall that reduces a lot of those requirements. Please consult with your local Building code officials they are the final say in their local jurisdiction/township. |
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Foundation Insulation Effectiveness: Basement building science Pat Huelman, Cold Climate Housing Coordinator with the University of Minnesota Extension discusses the issues associated with insulated foundation walls. |
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Ed, the inventor of InSoFast discusses the inspiration and the reasons behind why he developed an engineered insulated wall system, and asks the question why do you want to work so hard? |
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Hugo D'Esposito from AM Shield Waterproofing Corp discusses the pros and cons of InSoFast with Ed Sherrer the inventor. |
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Ted talks about the importance of moisture control and insulation. |
| This was one of our earliest customer interviews a customer from Chicago about InSoFast® Engineered Insulation benefits in his home. |
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Project in Easton Maryland where InSoFast replaces traditional framing and batting insulation or "z furring and rigid foam insulation," for insulating a basement. Our customer's review states that we are faster and less expensive then spray foam applications and a better value for the price. |
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This is Boden Custom Builders first InSoFast install. In this video the Boden brothers, Chris and Dan will talk us through installing InSoFast on uneven walls. |
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"My experience with InSoFast panel" |
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A DIY experience with InSoFast insulated panel installation. I'm not a carpenter or builder, just a regular Joe working on an old cinder block house in Central Texas. |
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This video of a regular Joe working on an old cinder block house in Central Texas. Here he goes through the details used to set single and double gang junction boxes, plugs and switches in InSoFast. |
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Thanks for viewing my video. I ordered 46 boxes of the UX 2.0 to Pennsylvania. I am going to need to order a few more boxes to finish my floor on the other half. If i had a do-over i would have ordered enough to do my whole floor and also my 10x12 shed. |
UX 2.0 Panels |
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| UX 2.0, Panel Details | dxf | UX2.0 zip file | ||
| All UX 2.0 Details | pdf |
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EXi 2.5 Flat Panel Details |
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| EXi 2.5 Flat Panel Details | dfx | dwg | EXi 2.5 zip file | |
InSoFast Stud |
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| InSoFast Stud Details | dxf |
pdf |
| Windows, Doors, and Openings All Details | ||
| Window CMU, Inset Retrofit 070101 | dxf | |
| Window CMU, Flush Retrofit 070102 | dxf | |
| Window CMU, Drywall Return over InSoFast 070105 | dxf | |
| Window CMU, Drywall Return over Wood Framing 070106 | dxf | |
| Window CMU, Wood Extension Jamb and Trim with Solid-Backing 070108 | dxf | |
| Window CMU, Wood Extension Jamb and Trim 070109 | dxf | |
| Window CMU, Return with (FRP) 070121 | dxf | |
| Door CMU, Full Width Steel Jamb with FRP Finish 070125 | dfx | |
| Door CMU, Inset Steel Jamb with FRP Return 070126 | dxf |
InSoFast Plus Method
Need a higher R-value? No Problem! Start with a base of InSoFast continuous insulation panels they are feature-rich and easy to install. Then add rigid foam insulation over top of InSoFast panels.
